Russia, as a patchwork quilt, is woven from dozens of cultures. 142 905 200 dissimilar people (according to the 2010 census). Every corner of our country is unique due to people living there. In the south, Caucasian people create the color, Tatars, Mordvins and Chuvashes in the Volga region, and in Yakut, Khanty and other northerners in Siberia.
Today we are going to Buryatia, the center of Russian Buddhism.
Ivolginsky datsan
Ivolginsky datsan is a Buddhist monastery, officially considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. His story does not go back to oblivion. About him are not stacked beautiful legends. But everyone who was there says that the place is magical.
Datsan – the Buryat is a Buddhist monastery, which, in addition to the temples, also includes a university.
Buddhism came to Russia in the 17th century. Before the revolution, there were 35 datsans in the country. But for the Bolsheviks, religion, as is known, was “opium” – all denominations were discredited.
The situation was broken by war. If you ask how the Ivolginsky datsan appeared, the locals will reply: “Stalin presented me.” At the beginning of the war, the situation at the front was so heavy that the soldiers and their commanders were happy with any help. Buryat Buddhists collected 350,000 rubles (unheard of at the time the amount) and gave them to the needs of the army. They say that it was in gratitude for this generous gesture that the Soviet leadership allowed the believers to build a datsan.
Photo: Mikhail Markovskiy / Shutterstock.com, Oleg Golovnev / Shutterstock.com, Mikhail Markovskiy / Shutterstock.com
True or local fiction – it is unknown. But the fact that in May 1945 issued the Decree of the People’s Commissars of the Buryat-Mongolian ASSR “On the opening of the Buddhist temple …” remains a fact.
… The monastery in Ulan-Ude, the capital of Buryatia is one of the biggest sights that I saw in the USSR. It was built when Stalin was at the top of power, I did not understand how this could happen, but this fact helped me to realize that spirituality is so deeply rooted in human consciousness that it is very difficult, if not impossible, to uproot it … Dalai Lama XIV
Ivolginsky datsan began to build in the open field. At first there was a simple wooden house, but gradually through the efforts of believers the monastery grew and transformed. In 1951, the authorities formally allocated land for him, and in 1970 and 1976, were built cathedral temples (dugans).
Dugan is a Buddhist temple.
Today the Ivolginsky datsan is 10 temples with unusual architecture, 5 steps-suburgans, a university, a greenhouse of sacred Bodhi tree, aviary with roe deer, houses of lamas and one of the main Buddhist shrines is the imperishable body of Lama Itigelov … However, everything is in order.
What to see in the Ivolginsky datsan?
Sogchen arc (the main cathedral temple), Choyra dugan, Devazhen dugan, Jude Dugan, Sahuusan Sumae, Maidari Sumae, Maanin Dugan, Nogon Dari Ehen Sumae, Gunrik Dugan, the arc of Green Tara – the so-called 10 temples of the Ivolginsky monastery. They differ in size, year of construction and purpose. So, Gunrik Dugan is a temple dedicated to the Buddha of Vairochana, the Jude Dugan is a tantric temple.
The temples are built in the Sino-Tibetan style: bright, multicolored, with bent corners of the roofs. But at the same time the Ivolginsky buildings have unique architectural features.
Photo: 1, 2 and 3 – Mikhail Semahin
First, in Buryatia the main building material is a tree. This distinguishes Buryat dugans from Tibetan, which, as a rule, are built from stone. Secondly, almost all the temples in the Ivolginsky Monastery have a “hallway”: in Tibet, the entrance to the temple is carried out directly from the street. This is because the winters in Buryatia are severe and such vestibules protect the dugans from the cold.
A special place among the buildings of the monastery is the palace with the immortal body of the great Teacher. It is a question of the Buryat religious figure, one of the prominent Buddhist ascetics of the twentieth century, the hambo-lama Dashi-Dorzho Itigelove.
Itigelov was born in 1852 in Buryatia. The boy was an orphan early and at the age of 15 passed 300 km to get to Anin Datsan and become a novice there. Itigelov spent 23 years in the monastery, comprehending spiritual and philosophical truths. After completing his studies, he actively engaged in religious activities, received the title of the main Teacher of all Buddhists in Eastern Siberia.
In the summer of 1927, Itigelov sat in the lotus pose and called his disciples. He gave them the last instruction (to visit him in 30 years) and fell into nirvana. So he was “buried”, placing the body in a cedar barrel.
After 30 years, as was bequeathed, the novices came to visit Itigelov and found that for three decades the Teacher’s body remained imperishable. Subsequently, it was several times removed from the barrel – the result remained the same. In 2002, Itigelova was finally removed from the ground.
At the exhumation, scientists were present. They took samples of hair, nails and skin Itigelova. The results of laboratory studies shocked: the tissues did not deaden. Moreover, for 75 years the humbo-lama’s body was not deformed at all. Itigelov still sits in the lotus position, the llamas caring for him, claim that his body temperature is changing, and in days of worship, even the perspiration appears.
Anyone can see imperishable. But only eight times a year – during the great Buddhist holidays. In the rest of the time, only monks and (in exceptional cases) official delegations have access to it.
Another important building on the territory of the Ivolginsky Monastery is the Buddhist University (“Dashi Choinhorlin” – in the translation from Buryat “The Land of Happy Learning”). It was opened in 1991. Outwardly the university is very modest – a large wooden house.
Currently, about 100 monks-novices-huvaraks-are trained in the educational institution. Day huvaraka quite strict, and life is ascetic. At 6:00 am, from 7:00 to 21:00 hurals and study of philosophy, Tibetan language, oriental medicine, iconography, as well as a number of secular subjects (logic, history and others).
Khural is worship.
In breaks between classes novices prepare their own food, clean their dwellings (ordinary wooden huts right on the territory of the monastery) and carry out economic work on datsanu. Five years later, huvaraki become llamas, and also receive a secular diploma of education.
Lama is a religious teacher, a monk.
Anyone can get involved in the life of huvarak: on Saturdays and Sundays, the teachers of the Ivolginsky datsan (among whom, incidentally, there are spiritual leaders from Tibet, Mongolia and India) give lectures for all comers.
What to do in the Ivolginsky datsan?
Acquaintance with the Ivolginsky datsanom should start with a mountain.
Goro – in the Buddhist tradition it is an honorable tour of holy places.
The territory of the Ivolginsky Monastery can be accessed through the main gate (they are on the south side of the monastery) or small secondary ones. The main entrance is open only for big holidays, on other days tourists and pilgrims use “spare” gates. Across the perimeter of the temple complex is a special path for accomplishing a mountain.
Bypassing datsan should be done in the course of the sun (clockwise). Goro can be done both independently and accompanied by lamas. The latter are always friendly and gladly conduct excursions for guests. The main thing is to make a horo an odd number of times.
On the territory of the datsan, every sculpture, every monument and even an element of decor is filled with deep meaning. Therefore, during the mountain, you should not hurry. So, during the rounds, not only the dugans will meet, but also the prayer drums (khurde). They must be twisted (also clockwise). Inside these are scrolls with mantras. In the biggest drum of the Ivolginsky Datsan is a scroll, where, according to the lamas, 100,000 mantras are written – one turn as if 100,000 prayers read.
Photo: 1, 2, Mikhail Markovskiy / Shutterstock.com
Also on the way there will be a quaint stone. According to legend, it left an imprint of the palm of Green Tara (goddess, who quickly comes to the rescue). It is believed that if you move away from the stone for a few steps, make a wish (necessarily good), extend your hand forward and, closing your eyes, go to the stone and try to touch it, then the intention will certainly come true. If you get out of the way and touch something else, not the stone, desire is not destined to become a reality.
Photo: 1, 2 and 3 – Mikhail Semahin
During the mountain it is possible to enter any open dugans, attend prayer services. The main thing is to observe local etiquette. So, you can not turn your back on the statues of the Buddha, you can not point a finger at them. Also on the territory of the monastery you can not smoke, swear, do not talk loudly.
You should also look into the greenhouse, where the sacred Bodhi tree grows. This is one of the main symbols of Buddhism. According to legend, meditating under this tree, Buddha attained Enlightenment. Orangery of the Ivolginsky datsan more than 30 years, the first process was brought once from India, gradually the tree grew into a small grove.
After the mountain, you can go to the wasteland behind the datsan, where a dry bush grows, hung with colored rags. These cloths are called chemotherms.
Himmorin is a cloth flap with prayer; the color of the Himorin depends on the year of the person praying.
Find out what you need himmorin, consecrate him, and also ask where he should be better hung, you can at the lamas. The flap should be tied to a tree or a bush, and every gust of wind will “read” the prayer for you. Himmorin symbolizes the psychic energy of man. Therefore, this ritual is recommended to be performed when the yearning is overcome to revive inner energy.
Photo: 1, 2, 3
In addition to temples and religious monuments (for example, stupa-suburgans), there is a museum of Buddhist art monuments, a library, a cafe, a summer hotel and shopping bazaars on the territory of the Ivolginsky datsan. In some of them, Buddhist souvenirs are sold, while in others local people build their business. They sell shawls, woolen mittens and socks. After talking with them, you can not only reduce the price, but also learn a lot of interesting things about the Buryat people. The cafe serves national cuisine (poses, pilaf, etc.) – this is another way to join the Buryat culture. In addition, the places around are so distinctive, unlike European Russia, that the hands themselves involuntarily reach for the camera. In a word, even people who are far from Buddhism will find what to do in the Ivolginsky datsan.
How to get to Ivolginsky datsan?
Datsan is located in the Ivolginsky district of the Republic of Buryatia in the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga, which is 8 km from the district center (Ivolginsk settlement) and 35 km from Ulan-Ude. Therefore, if you decided to visit the Ivolginsky datsan, then first you need to get to the capital of Buryatia, and from there already to keep the way to the Upper Oriole. Here there are two options.
Public transport
From Ulan-Ude to Ivolginsk there is a regular bus number 130, which takes you 30-40 minutes to the regional center. From Ivolginsk to the village of Verkhnyaya Ivolga can be reached by a fixed-route taxi, which regularly runs there.
On the big Buddhist holidays the bus from Ulan-Ude goes straight to datsan.
Personal car
By car from Ulan-Ude to Ivolginsky datsan you can get on the highway A-340 (formerly called A-165) – “Kyakhta tract”. The road runs through Ivolginsky, Selenginsky and Kyakhta districts. The route is approximately the following: Ulan-Ude-Suzha-Nur-Seleniye-Lower Ivolga-Ivolginsk-Upper Ivolga.
Photo: verevkin / Shutterstock.com, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Why should I see the Ivolginsky datsan?
Ivolginsky datsan is a great place for studying Buddhism (the oldest world religion) and Buryat culture. Despite the fact that the monastery is relatively young, it has an original architecture and a unique atmosphere. This is the place where you can find harmony.
In the monastery peacefully and calmly. Lamas, each of which has its own specialization, are pleased with the guests: lama astrologers will compile a horoscope and tell you about the future; llamas-healers will say that you have pain and how to cure it. In addition, you can simply talk with them, talk about their problems and get wise advice.
In translation from Buryat, the name of Ivolginsky datsan (“Gandan Dashi Choinhorlin”) means “a monastery where the Wheel of Teaching is full of joy and bringing happiness.” Those who visit datsan – no matter whether Buddhists or not – note that it is exactly such feelings and experience – happiness and joy.
